The house wakes before we do. By seven the terrace is already warm on the east side and the channel has that flat, pewter look it keeps for an hour before the wind gets up. This is the order we’d do a day in — not a schedule, just the shape of it.
Coffee first, then up the mountain
The east end of the terrace catches the sun first. We leave the coffee and the good cups by the door; take them out and watch the ferry make its first crossing to Pag. If anyone in the party walks, this is the hour to do it — the Velebit trails behind the house are cool until about ten.
The easy one starts at the top of the village road and climbs for X minutes to a saddle with the whole channel below you. Back for a late breakfast; the bakery van comes through at nine.
The swim, when the water is bluest
Below the village the rocks are gentle and the water is at its clearest in the middle of the day. Go left of the little harbour for the flat slabs; go right for deeper water straight off the rock. There is shade under the pines from about one.
Masks and a couple of towels live in the box by the pool — take them. The sea is warmest from July, but it is swimmable from May if you are brave and from June if you are sensible.
Karlobag, or nothing at all
The honest answer is that most afternoons the pool wins. But if you want a town, Karlobag is X minutes down the coast road: a small harbour, a market on the right mornings, the ferry to Pag, and a shop that sells the island cheese.
Buy the cheese. Buy the oil while you are there too — it is what we leave by your door on the first night.
A konoba table till late
Grilled fish, island oil, a glass of something from Pag — the coast on a plate. There are three tables we trust between here and Starigrad; the note on the kitchen table has the current one, because it changes with who is cooking that season.
Book by phone, or ask us and we will. Then come back to the terrace: the ferry lights cross the channel until midnight, and the mountain goes pink behind you long after the sun is down.